This is my master list of expansive 3D model download sites. Focusing on 3D printing, but also for 3D modeling. Mostly STL format. Free and paid. This is not focusing on through-the-mail print services, and not a list of already-printed models. Not tiny individual downloads. Report suggestions and errors to Royce Edward Barber on Facebook. Thank you to i.materialise and to my 3D printer maker Josef Prusa for many of the links! The list will always be free and public with NO advertising. It can always be seen on this page: http://ontu.org/node/145
Master List of 3D Model Downloading...
* Thingiverse is vital, and all free: http://www.thingiverse.com
* YouMagine is vital: http://www.youmagine.com
* Sketchup Warehouse can be filtered to 40,000 printable files: https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com
* MyMiniFactory. Free, easy, no login needed. https://www.myminifactory.com/
* XYZware 3D Gallery is cute: http://us.gallery.xyzprinting.com/
* Cults3D: http://www.cults3d.com
* Pinshape is 13,000 free and payable files: http://www.pinshape.com
* Autodesk 123D Gallery is free: http://www.123dapp.com/Gallery/content/all
* Libre3D is free, no login necessary: http://libre3d.com/
* 3dshook is low cost but mostly pay models: http://www.3dshook.com
* TinkerCad Gallery is free: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/
* Grabcad is 30,000 mostly engineering files and game models, not specifically for 3D Printing: https://grabcad.com/library
* Cgtrader free and pay. Sort by STL and Price: http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models
* Sketchfab is mostly organic gaming models, with 1,000 ready to 3D Print: http://www.sketchfab.com
* TurboSquid has pricey 3D files, often high resolution, not ready for 3D printing: http://www.turbosquid.com
* 3D Export: Like TurboSquid, is a pay site for high resolution models. Yet can be filtered for 3D Printing. https://3dexport.com/free-3d-models
* TF3DM (The Free 3D Models): http://tf3dm.com/#axzz1LU2sLjRl
Places to search...
* Google Search. deviantArt Search. Legal Torrent Sites. YouTube search.
* Yeggi Search Engine. Amazing! Freely search many 3D model websites. http://www.yeggi.com
Similar lists to the article you're on...
* Wikipedia list of 3D Printing Marketplaces: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_printing_marketplace
Sites to Correct 3D Model Errors...
* Make Printable: www.makeprintable.com
* From Microsoft: https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net/
* Prusa 3D Printing Calculator: http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/
Sites to Convert a Photo into 3D...
* Image to Lithophane, by Nested Cube Ltd. Free. Super easy. No login needed. Set image settings to Positive. Read Settings>Help to get started. http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
* 3DShook Lithophane. Click the Lithophane icon: http://www.3dshook.com/play/
* Photoshop does Lithophane if you install an Action: http://formlabs.com/blog/make-your-own-3d-printed-lithoform/
Facebook for 3D Printing Communities and Groups
3D Printing Magazines
3D Printing Services (Focusing on local 3D printing in your town).
* 3D Hubs. Scroll down to see your local printers and prices; https://www.3dhubs.com/3dprint
Royce Barber's Calibration of Prusa Origional i3 MK2 and Similar Printers. Keeping in mind every printer is unique and none are perfect. All printers have a personality of sorts. Contact "Royce Edward Barber" on Facebook for improvements;
* Printer makes perfect 1st layer, internal grid structure, and can print a perfect cylendar:
* Pully is clean all the way around so it can perfectly grip filament:
* Pully tension springs (two springs sticking far out of hotend) are exactly 13mm not counting the head of the screw:
* All zip ties and screws are sturdy, tight, and not interfering with movement of bed or hotend:
* Two screws specifically holding hotend rod in place, are very tight:
* Nozzle belt is tight: Yes (very, perhaps slightly too tight).
* Filament spool is centered and drops filament from front of printer (printer display is front):
* All rods are clean:
* Are printed items free of bumps, major strand fibers, physical touchable zebra stripes:
* Are verticle lines on tall verticle prints, limited to just one line from zHeight layer adjustment, or are there multiple vertical lines:
* Help steps from this page have been followed. ( http://help.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk2 ).
* User has looked at BOTH manuals, one is User Guide and other is online Assembly Guide. And also Prusa Forum:
* Kit users know about Chat support, and Pre-assembled users know about pre-assembled email support:
* All calibration YouTube videos from Josef Prusa have been watched and performed where aplicable:
Square and Parallel related...
* Threaded horizontal rods under bed are perfectly parallel according to a ruller:
* Bed is flat, checked with office paper:
* Bed is perfectly square with verticle metal handle. Checked by office paper:
* Bubble level test for perfect levelness. Table, Printer handle, printer bed, all horizontal rods:
* Is right side of metal printer handle, square with your desk. Using paper or metal triangle:
* Pully is alligned with the sleek metal wheel next to it, and also to center of nozzle:
* Verticle threaded rods are parallel (it's okay if they are off by 2mm):
* When looking down at printer, threaded hotend rod alligns with lines on printer:
Onscreen Display related...
* Nozzle has zero plastic during calibrations:
* Test prints are being done using factory sample prints, with default gcode:
* All calibrations check out, and have been recently performed somewhat in this order - SelfTest then XYZ then V2 then MeshBed then zHeightNozzle:
* In V2 calibration, plastic firmly sticks to bed:
* No onscreen errors, fans run, bed heats, no odd sounds, no clogs:
* Latest Firmware (such as 3.0.8 as of Oct 2016):
* Small prints need gluestick, but do medium size prints stick:
* For PEI bed cleaning, using Rubbing Alcohol and not Glass Cleaner Spray (glass cleaner is ok but leaves a slight slippery film):
* For PEI bed adhesion of small parts, putting on gluestick when bed is cold (because hot won't cure right):
* Hotend and Bed can both move freely, both able to activate the click-sound endstop switch:
* Bed belt is fairly tight:
* Bed heat tempature is correct:
* Filament kept dry in a area (such as bin with clean cat litter) of very low moisture:
* Environment tempature is comfortable around 73 degrees Ferenheight. Not "sweaty hot" nor "fridge cold":
Prusa Items To Sort...
First time setting up the factory-assembled "Prusa Origional i3 MK2" 3D printer. Read all carefully before operating printer.
* If you're mean to others or a clumsy brute, this is not for you. 3D printing is precision work.
* Tools to Buy (mostly optional): Scissors. Two Metric hex bits (one is 2.5, other I don't know). Any needlenose plyers. Moisture wicking packs for keeping filament dry in bags. Fine 1000 sandpaper to gently sand the bed surface. Tweesers/toothpicks for cleaning. Sewing machine oil to grease all the rods; never wd40 because it's a cleaning chemical to remove grease. Dont let oil touch belt. Fine 1000 sandpaper from DollarTree for example, to remove slippereyness from your print bed if needed. LaserBondUSA UV Glue, to fill-and-sand any holes in print bed from not letting it cool before pulling away print. Metal paint scraper included, to pry up prints.
* Take out of box, read through manual, remove white zip ties. Take big clear bright sharp photos of any broken parts (blurry photos are rejected).
* Ensure the power-supply switch is set to 110 if in the USA. DONT turn on the printer until you ensure the little power switch in the power supply is set to your region.
* Dont hook up a PC until you have the printer working great with the sample files included on the memory card. Printing and slicing from a PC is a whole different ball of yarn. Get the printer printing great, well before hand.
* Printer bed has to be perfectly level.
* V2 configuration in the printer menu, is just a 3d file that the printer will start printing. During this time, you go to the zLiveHeight menu to heighten or lower the nozzle.
* Live chat is there for you, but they are often a bit busy. If in question just keep live chat open. I'm always available also but I'm not good with some things. :3
* Let bed cool FULLY before prying up a print with any force. The heated print bed is covered with a cell phone screen protector called a PEI surface. This breaks and cracks when hot. You'll see, no question there. XD
* Let bed cool before applying gluestick, which you shouldn't need anyway for most prints. Reason is gluestick only drys on a cool bed, it wont dry on a warm bed.
* Don't update firmware for a month or so, it's already updated from factory.
* Don't use Glass Cleaner such as Windex, it leaves a film. Clean bed with any Rubbing Alcohole and paper towels. Not rubbing alcohol pads, some have oil in them.
* Web resources include Live Chat, Forum, Prusa YouTube Channel, Drivers with included Slic3r Software, Facebook Official Group, Online Assembly Guide (similar to iFixIt), small User Guide PDF. Email support only for Factory-Assembled printers.
End of Prusa checklist. Buy your 3D printer and quad-color upgrade at: http://www.shop.prusa3d.com
Suggestions will be added. Just message me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/roycebarber